How to play
- Drag a part from the pegboard onto the toilet. A green ring means it can go there now; red means another part has to go in first.
- Tap a fitted part to set it: the fill valve's float, the locknut and supply nut (tight or loose), and the chain's slack.
- Press Flush to test. The message under the figure names every problem it finds.
- Use Hint for the next step, Reset to start over, or Watch it built to see the right order. The parts list under the figure does everything without dragging.
What the puzzle teaches
- The fill valve's cone (shank) washer seals the hole in the tank floor from the inside; without it the tank leaks round the shank.
- The tank locknut and the supply line's coupling nut go on by hand, then about a quarter turn more. Overtightening can crack the china or strip plastic threads.
- Set the water level about 1 inch below the top of the overflow tube, or at the line marked in the tank.
- An anti-siphon fill valve's critical-level (CL) mark has to sit at least 1 inch above the top of the overflow tube.
- Leave about 1/2 inch of slack in the flapper chain: too tight holds the flapper off its seat and the toilet runs; too slack and the handle can't lift it far enough to flush.
- Clip the refill tube to the overflow tube with its end above the water. It tops up the bowl after each flush; pushed down into the overflow it can siphon the tank.
Parts on the list
- Fill valve with cone (shank) washer and tank locknut
- Braided supply line, length to suit the stop
- Flapper sized to the flush valve (2″ or 3″)
- Lift chain and clip
- Tank handle with trip arm
- Refill tube and overflow clip
A summary for planning and training. Shut off the water at the stop and flush to empty the tank before you work on it. Follow the instructions that come with your fill valve and flapper and your local plumbing code.